I had the pleasure of attending the Pacific Peaks & Vines: The Best of Washington State & Oregon Wine recently.
American wines don’t tend to be my go-to as what’s mainly available in the UK, is California-dominated and can be quite homogenous unless you’re willing to really splurge on the premium end.
I was introduced to Oregon wines at an old world versus new world Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wine tasting a few years ago where I sampled some sublime bottles from Morgen Long Wine and Abbott Claim. Having piqued my interest, I was eager to explore what else was on offer from the state and delve into – for me – the unchartered territory of Washington State.
Pacific Peaks & Vines: The Best of Washington State & Oregon Wine
While there was no shortage of Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons – as you’d expect (they account for 38% of the grapes harvested across the states). I was pleasantly surprised by the diverse range of other varieties on offer. Alongside the other ‘bigger players’ such as Merlot, Syrah and Riesling, there were also Sauvignon Blancs. Pinot Gris, Viogniers, Petit Verdots and even some Sangiovese! In all, there were about 20 different grape varieties. The breadth and quality were impressive. Here are a few of my standouts for varying reasons (and in no particular order).
Winery: The Sleight of Hand Cellars
Wine: Spellbinder 2019
The 2019 Spellbinder is a warm, aromatic and satisfying blend of 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc, 21% Merlot, and 7% Syrah. There is so much on the nose with herby, floral, earthy notes alongside black and red fruit aromas. It’s very fruit-driven; raspberry, cherry, blackcurrant and blackberry all come through, alongside plenty of spice. This wine is smooth, medium-bodied and great to drink on its own but would pair well with a broad spectrum of foods.
I also loved its fruit-forward and earthy Levitation Syrah. Both wines are available in the UK via https://esterwines.co.uk/
Winery: Citation
Wine: Citation OR Chardonnay 2015
Refined elegance and Old-World charm with New-World zing underpins this winery. The Citation Chardonnay 2015 hails from the warm year of 2015, which saw the earliest-ever harvest in Oregon. It has real finesse and is not aggressively oaky or overtly alcoholic, but it has that richness, which makes it my kind of Chardonnay and a standout Chardonnay from the tasting.It has bright, rich citrus, tropical fruit and vanilla aromas. On the palate, pineapple, crème fraiche and delicate oak flavours pervade. The good acidity and freshness beautifully balance out the richer, creamier flavours.
Citation founder Howard Rossbach summed it up beautifully:
There is more than enough Chardonnay produced without eloquence: oaky, alcohol-laden and insipidly fruity. We approach this alluring grape differently: combining the richness of New World fruit with the classic structure of the old world’s artistry.”
Wine: Citation Oregon Pinot Noir 2006
This Pinot Noir is bottle-aged for nine years before release, which gives it a fantastic complexity. There are ripened raspberry and strawberry aromas with fresher black cherry, lavender and cinnamon. On the palate, the vanilla and fruit pudding flavours are accompanied by delicately permeating tertiary ones of forest floor and leather; there is also some delicate oak at the end – yet it still retains a freshness.
This world-class Pinot Noir would give many Old-world Pinots a run for their money and is reflected in the price tag.
Find out more here. Citation is currently seeking distribution in the UK.
Winery: RM Wineries
Wine: Caliche Estate – Dry Riesling
It feels like RM Wineries - Washington State’s largest family-owned grape-to-bottle wine producer - is doing things a bit differently. Firstly, I was encouraged towards its Albarino as opposed to the more ubiquitous Sauvignon Blanc they had on offer. This was delightfully dry, crisp and aromatic with lovely acidity and minerality. However, on the white front, I was seduced by the Riesling. Hailing from the Ancient Lakes appellation in Washington, this dry, medium-bodied Riesling is aromatic and high on the acidity but retains a great fruitiness. On the nose, you’re greeted with fresh pear, apple and peach. The peach develops on the palate alongside hints of orange whilst retaining some green fruit. There’s pleasing complexity here but with that lovely acidity.
Wine: Alki Red Blend 2019
Alki is a Chinook word which means ‘hope for the future’ and is included in Washington State’s unofficial motto. It certainly seems an apt statement for this wine.
The 2019 Alkí Red Blend combines five different grape varieties: 47% Syrah, 37% Malbec, 9% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon.
There are aromas of black cherries, blackberry and ripe red berries alongside chocolatey notes. On the palate, the blackberry and cherry continue and are accompanied by a subtle pepper hint and mocha flavours. I was amazed that this commanded just a $20 price tag.
RM Wineries is currently seeking distribution in the UK.
Winery: Hedges Family Estate
Wine: Descendants Liégeois Dupont Le Blanc
The Hedges Family Estate, a biodynamic and organic winery, is located in the Red Mountain AVA of southeast Washington State.
2022 was a challenging year from start to finish in the area, but their persistence has evidently paid off here and created a deliciously rich and full-bodied wine. Rhône white varieties of Marsanne (68%) and Viognier (32%) combine perfectly to give fruity, ripe apple and melon aromas, which mingle with panna cotta, crème brûlée and toasted nuts thanks to malolactic fermentation of the Marsanne barrels. This has great depth and some wonderfully biscuity flavours owing to the lees ageing. There’s even some honey and a very subtle sherry-like richness.
The makers suggest that for optimum fruit flavours and aromas, drink this now. However, the higher acidity of this wine should keep it drinking well for up to 15 years.
For more information about Washington State and Oregon wines, visit:
Comments